my detainment

http://the-uptake.groups.theuptake.org/en/videogalleryView/id/695/

Actually video footage of police confrontation of my detainment. No dispersal order, no communication, just a whole ton of tear gas.

I was fairly far behind the people with the banner but still got trapped in clouds. The mention of "Chelsea, keep moving" is a friend I was right next to. The guy asking Oliver if he is alright is Shannon, and I was a couple yards behind him at that time. Tear gas hurts. No dispersal order was issued, no one was being violent when the cops. The Uptake also has a video of our detainment and the arrests of 150 people who had "hurt a lot of people" according to the police that talked to us. All the kids in the front of the line were in the peaceful protest and were with us the whole time. I saw no violence.

Here is our detainment.

http://the-uptake.groups.theuptake.org/en/videogalleryView/id/689/

More information

Coldsnap legal collective needs your help. The prisoners in jail in downtown st. paul need your help. Democracy and civil rights need your help. Please lobby politicians, call the jail, go to the vigils and show your support for the 300 plus protesters, including media, medics, lawyers and peaceful protesters (not just unruly, violent anarchists) who are behind bars being denied medical attention, due process of law and their freedom of speech.

http://coldsnaplegal.wordpress.com/

http://stimulator.tv

http://twincitites.indymedia.org

http://nornc.org

St. Paul Police State RNC 2008

The police, the federal government and the national guard have made it clear that our constitutional right to political dissent is to be handed out in permits, restricted by cages and confined to "free speech zones." Now don't get me wrong, I am not a bumping constitutionalist, but doesn't it say somewhere in there that Americans have the right to free speech? Doesn't it say that we have the right to assemble? Lets take a look...

Amendment I

Congress shall make no law respecting an establishment of religion, or prohibiting the free exercise thereof; or abridging the freedom of speech, or of the press; or the right of the people peaceably to assemble, and to petition the government for a redress of grievances.
http://www.law.cornell.edu/constitution/constitution.billofrights.html#amendmenti

Now, I think keeping ANYONE from being able to go into downtown St. Paul after the "free speech rally" (which, by the way, was limited to a very out-of-the-way, short path no where near the proposed rally route, which the RNC protest planners sued and lost the state over... but whatever, lets not focus on that little detail right now) could be considered an abridgment on the freedom of speech. There were riot police lining nearly the whole route, including standing on the other side of the fence in the freedom cage we had to march through (though I do have to admit, screaming chants of "tell me what a police state looks like-this is what a police state looks like!!!!" was fairly invigorating.)



Lets focus on press now for a second. Any Goodman, independent and highly respected news reporter, was arrested yesterday... with a press pass. Here's video of that. Of course, they had nothing on her and she was let out last night, but only because of her prestige. Other legal, lawful and legitimate reporters and camera men and women are still downtown behind bars. The police have no legitimate charges on them, and probably have as little legitimate charges on the other 263 people locked up, not to mention the other 300-400 anarchists who haven't been booked due to their policy of not carrying ids with them. Now, when legitimate press passed journalists are getting arrested for doing their job, you know something is wrong.





Now on to Patey's story. I have a friend who works for UTNY who also had a press pass and was in downtown yesterday filming and photographing the action. After realizing how dangerous the area was becoming, he met up with an ABC reporter and another indy journalist for lunch at a thai restaurant downtown. After lunch, they left and just happened to stumble across a police confrontation of a peaceful, if considered "illegal" by the free speech regulations, protest. These three legitimate, press passed individuals, despite their credentials, were shot at numerous time by riot police using rubber bullets. They ran the hell out of there and didn't look back. Now, when the press is being involved in the confrontations, you know something is not right.

So maybe its time for my personal account, as much as I never actually got into downtown st. paul and never really got to see any of the real action. After the rally, my four friends and I joined up with the anti-capitalist group from the rally and tried to figure out how to get involved from here. We heard that there were some confrontations at Wabasha and Cedar and wanted to go there to show solidarity and hopefully stand upwind of the tear gas. Now, we were probably about 200 kids all wearing black and red and army green with wet bandannas over our faces- not exactly the least conspicuous group, but none-the-less, with every intention of being peaceful. We weren't out there to knock over dumpsters, blockade roads or pour concrete onto delegate buses (btw- mad props for whoever came up with that last idea! Before seeing this police state I probably would have condemned such action, but I guess the violence I saw as a peaceful demonstrator has proved to me that peaceful demonstration just doesn't work when the cops are so out of hand!) Anyway, the easiest way to get there was to walk down Wabasha. As soon as our peaceful but conspicuous group got to the bridge crossing the river, about 30 riot police congregated at the entrance and refused to let us pass. When we say them fiddling with gas maskes, we calmly retreated.

So to find another route. It looked like the only way was to walk down the bluff to the lovely path down by the river on Jackson/Shepard road and come back up behind the Exel energy center. So about 200 of us, not chanting and not at all acting like a mob or a connected group (keep in mind it was about 90 degrees, there was no shade and we'd all been biking and marching four at least four hours) slowly ambled toward downtown. All was fine and good until we heard some grenade sounds in front of us. Being the stupid person that I am, I quickened my pace to see what the action was, and saw mobs of riot police shooting gas bombs at my peaceful protesters. As we all retreated, asserting to eachother "walk, don't run! Stay calm", the police were able to run ahead of us. I was behind the front of the police charge, walking through clouds and clouds of tear gas (thank god for bandannas soaked in apple cider vinegar, by the way). The crowd was screaming "Please, we've turned around, we are retreating! NO MORE TEAR GAS!" as the cops shot at least five to ten more tear gas bombs in our direction. I saw one kid get hit directly with one, and he didn't even have a bandanna.
As we retreated, feeling totally dejected and powerless, we decided we needed to find another route into downtown. Some 15 year old girls caught in the area were crying and freaking out- they weren't at all part of the demonstrations and had no idea what they were getting themselves into. There were also local families taking their kids for walks in strollers and handfuls of people simply caught in the wrong place at the wrong time.
As we started embarking on the exit up the bluff and back toward the capitol, tons of gas masked bike police and cavalry started charging us from the other side saying "turn around, you can't go this way." Being the clever people we are, we realized we were being trapped. With a bluff on one side, the river on the other, riot police behind us and cops in front, we all stayed put. Over time, the two groups had all 200 of us blocked off in an area about as big as half a city block. There were at least 300 of them. Our peaceful mob was outnumbered. Then the plastic handcufs came on. "Everyone, sit down and put your hands on your head. You are now under arrest." A few people who didn't comply got pepper sprayed at short distance. Me and my friends were near the front, sitting dejected on the grass, overcome with a feelings of total defeat.
The first thing the riot police did was arrest the two medics, peaceful observers there to help tear gased, pepper sprayed, tased and rubber bullet hit protesters recover from any injury. These were not the enemy- I guess they were just seen as aiding the enemy and were thus carted away. After that, the press was allowed to leave. The riot police then started pointing at my friends and saying "yeah, lets remove them. But we gotta circle them. We don't want any of these people escaping." For whatever reason, of the 200 people detained down by the river, we were either the first or the second group to be let go. Only 50 of the protesters were allowed to leave, about a hundred were arrested one-by-one and the other 50 were detained until 7pm. (This is all happening between 4-4:30 I would say.) They had us stand and said "we know you guys didn't do anything wrong, but there are a lot of people behind you who hurt a lot of people." I didn't see any violence among these individuals, but the cops had paint-gunned a couple so they must have done something wrong... for your viewing pleasure, here is the photo that was front page of www.startribune.com this morning of me and my four friends being released.

Of course, the caption said "young protesters arrested" or something, but we weren't. We just looked sweet and innocent enough to be unsuspicious (its a good thing shannon took off his "fucking revolution" t-shirt that I bought for him in Bulgaria...) We were told that this was our last chance- if we returned to downtown St. Paul, we'd be arrested for sure. Feeling physically and emotionally exhausted, we walked back to our bikes and got the hell out of there.

When you can't demonstrate peacefully on your own streets, when houses are getting raided, people being arrested for no reason and anarchists are being singled out without doing anything wrong, political profiling is being used by the police and even medics, news reporters and peace observers are being singled out as criminals, then you know you are living in a police state. A van was raided in St. Paul near where my parents live, far from downtown- it was searched without a warrant and towed, the police told the owner "This is what happens when anarchists come to town." Now I'm not saying the anarchists weren't breaking a few windows and harassing a few cops, but that was only the minority. The black garb isn't to look intimidating, its to not be singled out. So instead they single out all of them and throw them all in bars.

I am too rattled, dejected and crushed to make any intelligent insight on this at this point. All I can ask is what the fuck are the police so afraid of?

Just another observation from the RNC protests, 2008.

Code Pink infiltrates the RNC during McCain's speech. Haha, finally someone doing something the delegates will see.

not so fist hearted

Its surprisingly easy to be back here. I have my qualms with American culture, but it isn't as though they didn't proceed my trip to Bulgaria. I miss a lot of things about Sofia, and I will continue to miss those things, but dammit, my friends and my parents here are really quite awesome and they are definitely worth coming home to.

Now I am off to the east coast. Not really sure why I am leaving, but I guess it makes sense. I have to fully greet my country before I can settle back in to life.

My livejournal post was much more profound... but right now, I really can't be bothered.

karadare reflections

The beach was beautiful. But I think I prefer mountains. Something about spending that much time relaxing really tired me out. In reality, we ran out of sun screen and I was so afraid of turning bright red that I spent most of the last two days sipping nescafe in the bar reading Palace Walk. It was quite nice. And a great way to reflect on the last 2.5 months of my life.

It was funny, Katerina was paging through a magazine on the picnic table and stumbled across a five page article on Minnesota. Is it a sign? Or maybe just a coincidence. Who knows, but I found it very amusing. I wanted to take the article, but I restrained myself.

Didn't see any dolphins or sharks, but I imagined them playing out in the distance. The waves were really strong, but I found that if I went in deeper I could ride over them more easily. I am a much better swimming than I think I am... Neither of the girls with me knew how to swim. Bon fire's at night with African drums and singing. Early mornings waking with the heat of the sun. Crashing around on the waves, walking along the coast, being treated to shopska salat by friendly Bulgarians, meeting English speaking Bulgarians at the bar... twas nice.

But I am happy to be back in sunny sofia where my friends and surrogate family reside.

karadare

I am going to the sea by night train tonight. I am going to a beach that's a fourty five minute walk from the nearest inhabitant. It is the last untouched piece of sea coast left and it will be developed within the next two years. Dolphins, swans, nude beach... should be interesting. Anyway, camping on the beach, eating only what we bring, drinking only what we bring. I'm sick as hell, but maybe the relaxation will do me some good. that and the questionable over-the-counter antibiotics.... what a strange country this is.

But the moral of the story is I won't be back until the night of the 5th and I will have no contact with the outside world (except cell phone if there is some emergency) so if you don't hear from me, you know why.

Chow- wish me happy dolphins, friendly sharks and beautiful sunrises! And ... you know... tolerable sun burns. (Nude beach... hmmm)

Chow

apologies

My apologies- I wrote that last blog entry in a state of extreme and possibly somewhat blind determination. I am going to visit between the 10th or 11th and the 19th or 20th or something. I will go to Baltimore first to visit Peter, then DC, the NYC and upstate NY if Oliver is there, which it seems like he won't be. It was just a crazy idea yesterday, but now it seems like it might actually happen! And of course I intended to ask you all before inviting myself (though I did get an open invitation to bitch about the US in a garden at any time...)

Giving oneself something to look forward is a very good defense mechanism.

plane tickets

I just found out I can't change my plane ticket. My whole plan is fucked, I only have a week left and I am spending most of it on the sea.

When I get home, I am going to take an East coast road trip to reflect on my life and visit my sister and uncle and peter and his brother... and no mom and dad, you can't convince me otherwise.

So... um... I will be home on the 8th. I let you know when. But I am leaving on the tenth for the east coast. I'm pretty upset. I'm not ready to go home.

hostel life

The hostel is full. In fact, all hostels in all of Sofia are full. Which means, of course, that I have been sleeping all over Sofia in a wide variety of people's home's. Last night I slept in a twin sized bed at Ana's house that I shared with Katerina. However, due to the fact that I was at the liberty of their time schedule, i went to sleep at 4:30 and woke up at 9... Two months of sleep deprivation is starting to grate on me. I have fantasies of sleeping on clouds and hard wood floors and anywhere that is big enough to curl up in fetal position and catch some sleep. I have slept at Reiny's place, Boby's place, Ana's, two different people named Peter's, Stefan's... I have slept across three chairs, I have slept in a mildewy basement and woken up with a sore throat the next morning. I have even slept in one arm chair, curled up in fetal position. But tonight I have a bed. In my own room. With no one else snoring or waking me up too early. I can sleep any time of the day behind a locked door. Peter is on vacation in Varna and I have the key to his room. I will sleep like a baby, only without the crying and waking up in the middle of the night... I will sleep like a sleep deprived homeless young adult who, for the first time in two months, has her own room... I can't wait.

Life is good. I am exhausted.

Never want to say goodbye

The weight of leaving this place is starting to set in. Maybe its the cloudy, cold weather or maybe its the annoying French teenagers who took over my dormitory and stole my glasses and threw my shower sandals out the window and clogged the toilet with tampons and broken glass (though you would think such an experience would cloud my positive vision of Bulgaria). I've been talking a lot to two friends of mine named Peter (Peter Roetke and Peter Rusev- this really is the summer of the Peters...) about culture clashes and MN peter and I both agree that Bulgarian culture has changed both of us immensely. Peter Rusev is a Bulgarian actor/director living in Denmark trying to make his films, so he's experiencing the same culture clash that us MNs have (only from the other side)- between the stoic, emotionless, passive aggressive, always positive, black and white culture of Scandinavia versus the open, warm, overflowing-with-emotions culture of Bulgaria. Both MN Peter and I are much more open than we were when we came here- we can see it in ourselves and we can see it in each other. Katerina and Annie make fun of me all the time- when I first came here, on my very first night I sat with the two of them at the hostel bar. They were trying so hard to get me out of my shell and I was hopelessly shy and scared- scared of Bulgaria, scared of adventure, scared of new things, scared of the language barrier. And now that they've known me for two months, they can see that I've changed. I speak freely, I bubble over with warmth and affection- I am so much more outgoing than I was when I got here. But its not only warmth that defines Bulgarian social skills- they aren't afraid to point out what's wrong with the world. I've had so many conversations about the government and communism and repression and the education system here and corruption and... and no one is afraid to point out what's wrong with the world. In Denmark, Peter tries to do the same thing and they always say "Be positive, Peter." Like being constructively critical is somehow a sin- like every human has a switch in their brain- positive, negative, positive, negative. There is no gray, there is no middle ground. I mean, don't get me wrong, there are a lot of things wrong in Bulgaria, a lot of things that are totally backwards. But the people are not one of those things. The people here have hearts of gold. Always kind, helpful, generous. Maybe they have nothing, but they will give you everything. Not like individualistic American culture where everyone has a lot and no one gives anything. All anyone cares about is their career, you can't just sit in a garden with friends talking about life, happiness, love, politics, whatever. There is no time for gardens in the United States. There is no time for anything- everyone always has to be doing something.

I can't stand the thought of going back...

matchlite briquette boys

Dad, did you even know this exists? Its a really great performance.

Varna

I have decided that night trains are certainly not the most comfortable way to travel. At least in buses they give you your own light so you can read all night. I spent most of the night wandering from car to car, wishing the bathrooms had toilet paper and didn't reak of urine and standing by the window to escape the sweltering heat. Of course, by 4am I understood why all the passengers had closed the windows as the whole train was consumed by the early morning chill. You can't smoke on trains anymore as of a year ago, but that didn't stop passengers from sneaking to the windows and lighting up when the coast was clear. I saw one man get fined for it, but most people were able to get away with it. I enjoyed watching the sneaky Bulgarians creeping around for their nicotine.
I arrived at Varna at 7am having gotten maybe one hour of sleep. I wandered the streets like a zombie in search of a bathroom (i opted to hold my bladder instead of use the train's) and a coffee.
Varna is one of the most overtly touristy cities I have ever been to. The hostel was totally filled with women, a stark contrast from my male dominated art hostel, and all they wanted to do was sit on the crowded, polluted beach and go to beach night clubs when a small rum and coke costs ten leva (that's absurd for Bulgaria! It should be maybe 3lv). The mafia runs the whole town- you see saabs and beamers all over the place. The men wear huge chains around their neck and hold themselves with powerful stances. They own all the night clubs and have intentionally designed them to be money making machines. As of last year, they put all the bars in the middle of the dance floor. This way, tourists won't dance and they will just continue to buy rip-off drinks all night. I didn't actually go inside one (I had been warned) but I did walk along the strips of beach where the clubs were trying to find a decent bar. Each club plays their music at top volume, all Chalga music (a synthesis of Bulgarian and pop music always sung by beautiful half naked women and men dressed like pimps. One of the worst musical forms I've ever heard and you hear it everywhere!!!). When walking down the road, it sounds like each club is trying to max out the volume of the one next door- all you hear is a dozen competing bass lines and a dozen competing melodies.
I went to one show and the crowd was equally unimpressive. Everyone just stood around or sat on couches, crowding near the back not dancing. There were a few die hard fans singing along to all the songs and dancing a little, but nothing compared to how sofia hardcore kids freak out. No one was jumping on each other or moshing or anything.
Anyway, I spent most of my time in Varna hanging out with Ben and Roland, two Aussi guys whom I had met at the Art Hostel. We played chess all night and they taught me Australian slang. Their presence at the Flag Hostel in Varna is what colored my time in Varna- they saved the city for me.
On Sunday, after eating a big plate of fruit and getting beaten by Ben at chess, I walked to the bus station and headed back to Sofia. The bus was much more comfortable and I was able to read the whole time. I got a bit car sick at first but my stomach settled down. I'm reading a really interesting book about the Lost Boys of Sudan. Well, it is an autobiography of one of lost boys. I highly recommend it- its called What is the What. Peter lent it to me.
I returned home to the Art Hostel at one in the morning to find all of my friends crowded at the bar eager to see me! Simeon and some virtuosic french fiddle player were playing amazing rock/folk jams in the room next door. It didn't take long for me to remember why I believe that the Art Hostel in Sofia is the single best place in the whole world. I can't tell you how lucky I feel to be living here, of all places.
Yesterday I met a man named James Anthony Gilligan who was just in Germany speaking for Iraq Veterans Against the War. He had lived in Sofia for a year so he came here for a few days to visit old friends. He is coming to Minneapolis for the RNC protests!!!!! I can't wait! This is the first person I've met here who I know I will see again. Its a very different feeling than the fleeting friendships.

crazy week

The mountain was amazing. Peter and I accidentally took a short cut up the mountain which, when mountain climbing, usually means 30 degree inclined and really rough terrain. It was really challenging, but I made it to the top in one piece. It was beautiful up there- the city looked so huge and far away. I'd never taken a lift before either, so that was a fun experience for me. We could watch the city disappear as we ascend the mountain above the trees. We never found a brewery- I think it was in the monestary, which we also didn't find. C'est la vie. After the work out, I didn't really want to ingest anything besides water. It was cool, they had natural springs all along the way where you could fill your water bottle with ice cold natural spring water. I've never tasted water that sweet and refreshing.

I met a guy named chad who is writing an article on Serbian rockabilly music for an english speaking journal called pilvax. Its either Serbian or Hungarian, I can't remember. Anyway, the next issue is about Eastern European music, so i am going to attempt to write a piece on BG hardcore music. I talked to the editor of the paper and he seemed interested in what I was doing... It will be some kind of creative non fiction piece about my experience more that a research piece- I think maybe about my ignorance and naivety about the whole thing, or maybe my experience entering the scene. Any ideas you have for me about how I could approach the article are music appreciated!

In other news, an older brittish american guy named Sam took me and Peter out to dinner at the Czech club. I can't say no to a free meal, so we went. Afterwards, we hung out with the gaijda player (Bulgarian bagpipe) who plays in the part outside of Sofia university for ten hours everyday. For twenty years he has played there for ten hours a day, six days a week (sundays are off). He plays BG songs and American jazz and folk tunes. He started singing Motherless Child at me and was shocked that I knew the words. Then he made me teach him a song, so I taught him Stars in my Crown. He invited the three of us over to his home where we drank rakia (I only had one small glass- that stuff is dangerous) and ate watermelon and homemade banitsa. He made me record Stars in my Crown on a small tape recorder so he could learn it. I wrote the words down for him (he kept saying "I only speak nine words in English" but actually his English was very good). He taught me a song, the lyrics of which are "I work all day but the night belongs to me." I have no idea where the song comes from. I should look it up somehow. He also sang Stars in My Crown (just the melody with no words) in the style he would play on the gaijda. It was amazing! Probably one of the weirdest experineces I've had so far (but among the best)
We returned to the hostel at about 2am to find the garden crowded with people playing guitar and having a sing along. That lasted until maybe 4:30 or 5:00- the neighbors must really hate us... Life is hard.

I'm off to the sea on Thursday to see a few shows and to sit on the beach. Maybe I can even get someone to talk to me while I'm at it. Hopefully.

Peace, love and all that. Sorry i've been lazy about the blogging.

Vitosha

Peter and I are climbing a mountain on Saturday. Apparently there are brewerys along the way, so we can stop half way up and drink beer. I'm really excited to get out and feel like I am exploring. There is a show this weekend and I'm going to the bands practice tomorrow night I guess. I can't wait to talk to them. I've talked endlessly to all of them on-line.

Its been in the 30s all week (celcius) so two people who work at the hostel and I went to a swimming pool yesterday. It was odd, there were a lot of topless people. You'd never see topless people at the pool in Minneapolis. The water was perfect. I got a bit burned, but it doesn't hurt.
I beat Peter in chess, the first time I've ever one chess in my entire life. I skrewed up pretty bad but had put him so much in the defense that I was able to put him in check with my queen and my king. It was pretty fun. I think once the Euro cup in over, he and I will have to play more chess. Spain and Germany! I never would have guessed from the group stages but Germany really turned around. I thought it would be portugal and holland.

Anyway, none of you care about football. Off to sweep and mop and then research.

Rila Monestary

I went to Rila monestary today. It was absolutely beautiful in the middle of the mountains. I've never been to a monestary before. I saw my first ever painted image of god on a church. They never paint god. Weird Eastern Orthodox Bulgarians. I hiked around the mountain a bit too- nothing too spectacular. Beautiful forests and a waterfall that I failed to photograph. It was nice to be somewhere so tranquil and meditative. Whatever you think about religion, that kind of intense meditation and serenity has value, even if you don't agree with its motivations.
A drunk Bulgarian fell off the hostel wall onto his face and smashed his nose really badly. They called an ambulance and everything. Very exciting. now there is a huge bloodstain in the garden below. Ouch. There have been three private bulgarian parties in the last week, two b-day parties and a concert. I've talked to a lot of drunken bulgarians. Its very nice.

Chai

Chai is back. But only for a few days. I am out on a quest for decent english translations of the great russian novels.

the winner of Bulgarian Idol

no more kitty

They kicked Chai out. I guess he was peeing in the basement. I don't really know what they expected- they didn't give him a litter box. I heard that some woman really liked him and took him to live with her. I am glad at least that he has a home, but I miss my hostel kitty. He was really the ideal cat...

I went to a Last Hope show last night. I actually got up the courage to introduce myself to a few people and they already knew who I was. It was kind of funny- I guess they were both in bands and had both talked to me on the internet. They said they would message me, but I might try to track them down before they get the chance. I need to set up more interviews. Its funny though- I guess I am a known figure in the underground punk scene in Bulgaria...

I finished The Comedians today. Its the only book I took with (sorry mom), and I feel a bit of a let down with nothing else to occupy my down time. I guess I still have about a dozen crossword puzzles and I could really stand to do a bit more exploration. I am saving hiking in the mountains for when Peter finishes his paper and has a weekend free of research obligations. Maybe that is silly- I should just do it anyway. But it rains everyday here for at least an hour and I stupidly brought no umbrella...

Plovdiv

Plovdiv is a beautiful city. The old city has old ancient Roman ruins and a 2,000 year old still functioning amphitheatre. The new city is much like Sofia, only less crowded and less dirty and they have stray cats more than stray dogs. Both cities have both, but cats seem to rule in the Old City anyway.

The old city is funny- its very much designed for tourism, much more so that Sofia, but it is clear that tourism here is small and relatively new- people don't seem to hate tourists and the streets, cathedrals and museums are mostly crowded with Bulgarians.

The hostel is alright. The actual building is much nicer than the art hostel- smaller, cleaner, newer... but it is filled will snotty travelers who only go to high rated hostels and love shopping and being pretentious. Maybe that's just who is here right now. Art Hostel is much more laid back and friendly. The people who work here are nice- I've been talking to them mostly. Also, the hostel cat here is much less friendly than my chai.

Chai

The light in the basement is very bad so I couldn't get a good picture of him, but here is my chaio

I suck at computers

i have no idea why the pictures are cut off like that, but if you click on them I think you can see them. Does anyone know how I can avoid this?

some photos from Sofia

this photo is the graffiti on the garden wall at the art hostel

A rose in the garden- its been raining so much that there are no roses right now...

really weird store front- something out of a bad horror movie or something

This is the oldest building in Sofia

hostels and racism

Sofia is starting to feel like home. Well, not Sofia- I still know nothing about Sofia. The Art Hostel is starting to feel like home. Its nice to have Peter here because he will be here until August too and there is someone stable- plus we are both from Minneapolis, so if we run out of things to say, we can always talk about that. Its comforting to have someone who you know will be there every night. He is educating me about football and American law, two things I know little about. I have started keeping a journal of all the people I meet in the hostel- everyone I talk to anyway. I will probably meet hundreds of people from all over the world before I leave. Hostels are amazing. And the Art Hostel is the best one, according to my friend Winston who has hitchhiked across Europe for three months, camping and staying in hostels. He came back here three times over the course of his travels. Well, Sofia is sort of the place to go before traveling to Turkey, Greece or Romania, so it makes sense. I like it here- its very run down, nothing works and parts of the building crumble off all the time, but the people are wonderful and the art everywhere disguises the decay a lot. All of Sofia is in a state of decay though- communist statues that have been neglected fall apart and are a risk to passers by (big chunks of metal aren't supposed to fall into public squares), everything is dirty, the streets are lined with fancy restaurants and expensive clothing stores but right outside there is a homeless person digging through the trash bins or a drunk homeless person sleeping on a bench. Pick pocketers attack everyone- there isn't much tourism here, so bulgarians lose wallets and cell phones too. Lots of racism against roma people. Its really a shitty city, but the people are wonderful (if a bit racist). Bulgarians are the most generous and respectful people I have met.
My research is going better. I found out that Rostislav, the owner of a booking agency for BG punk, hardcore and ska, won't book antifascist touring bands in Bulgaria because of the skin heads here- they start fights at the shows and its very dangerous. So I have to figure out what that's all about... hopefully I will get my questions answered somewhere...
All for now. I might try to get some pictures on here... don't really know how, but I will figure it out. I am a technological idiot, you know.

Veggie burger in Bulgaria apparently means a bun with yogurt sauce, tomato, lettuce and cucumber with french fries and a fried egg in the middle... and catsup. Not exactly what I was expecting, but surprisingly tasty.

Everyone at the hostel sits around every night and watches the European cup football tournament. I have watched a few matches and am starting to understand why the rest of the world is so interested in it. At least the games have fewer commercials (only 15 minutes at half time) and only last 1.5 hours.

I think I have my first interview this afternoon. The recording device will actually get used for its intended purpose! I am off to get coffee, brainstorm questions and sit in sunny Sofia. Its nice to have sun again at last!

chai, my new best friend

during the big rain storm in Sofia yesterday, a cat moved into the hostel tea basement. The owner is feeding it and if he doesn't spray on things, they are going to let him stay. He was timid at first, but now loves to spend hours sitting in anyone who will let him's lap. I have named him chai, the bulgarian (and pretty much international) name for tea. I don't think he was originally a stray- his coat was shiny and he seemed too well groomed. He was skinny, but all Bulgarian cats are skinny.

Another round of tourists that I had bonded with left the hostel this morning. It is hard to see people you have gotten to know so well leave... c'est la vie, I suppose.

research

I think that my research has shown preliminary thesis possibilities. I think it will be about the drive of Bulgarian music toward Westernization in an attempt to counteract communist repression. All the bands here are trying to emulate what they think punk is, which is actually much more influenced by metal than actual punk. But its interesting- I saw a show that was one punk band, one hip hop band and one ska band. The crowd remained throughout the whole show- the same kids listened to all three kinds of music. The hip hop group most ostensibly resembled Western music and an overt attempt to recreate it. There were awkwardly choreographed, scantily clad dancers and, though the lyrics were in Bulgarian, the occasional utterance of "bitch" and "ho" came across, so I got the general impression that they were awkwardly attempting to recreate Bulgarian gangster rap. I don't know- nothing about the musical structure is unique to Bulgarian music, though I have heard a lot of faux folk rock music here. I know more about Bulgarian folk culture than the Bulgarians my age that I've talked to. Its really kind of sad. Maybe its different in the cities. Anyway, this is what I think so far...

Bulgarian men

Bulgarian men respect women a lot more than American men. It is amazing to have friends without feeling like they are trying to hit on you- they respect your space and are very chivalrous, without being sleazy. I'm not used to people buying me drinks, though. In a society where everyone goes dutch all the time, it feels uncomfortable to be given things, especially when I know I am probably more well-off than the people giving me things. I guess it is Bulgarian hospitality (what they call it anyway) but it still feels awkward to me.
It has been raining on and off for days. In the morning it is sunny and cloudless and then it pours at night- very strange. I like it though- everything is very green in this dirty, crowded city. I am beginning to feel more comfortable here- more connected to the hostel and the other workers here. Its good to feel like I am part of something in this chaotic city.

Hostel cat visit

A black cat, just a bit bigger than clove, visited me again in the hostel garden. Last time it visited, it came for the sausage in the trash can, but this time it seemed it just came to explore and be petted. It is very friendly and lanky and wild-looking, but it let me pet it for a minute before jumping onto the hostel garden wall (at least ten feet, I think). I am thinking about trying to feed it and make it my cat. Maybe I should just hope my company is enough to entice it to return. I miss clove.

I mopped this morning , but no laundry. The hostel is fairly empty and only two people left this morning, neither of whom were staying on my floor. A Swedish guy from my hostel was pick pocket yesterday a few blocks from the hostel. Luckily, his flight left this morning, but he didn't have enough cash to take a cab to the airport so he sold me his Bulgaria guide book for ten leva (a cab ride to the air port). Now I have two guide books. Funny how it works out that way...

first day of work

My cleaning obligations in the hostel are to clean the floor that I sleep on, which is quite convenient because I know everyone on it, who is leaving, who is staying, and I won't always have to check in with the desk to see which beds to change sheets on. I don't really change sheets, just remove dirty ones and refold blankets. Eventually, when they get me a mop, I will mop the floors, change the trashes, wash the shower and the bathroom and always make sure there is enough toilet paper. A few nights into my stay a guy vomited in the sink on my floor and the desk people made him clean it up, so I probably won't have to deal with cleaning up other people's vomit. That's a good thing. Also, the cleaning woman said any time I can't clean or I will be travelling, just tell the desk and she will clean the floor instead. So I think it is a very flexible job. Everyone who works here is very laid back anyway.
I met a guy from Georgia (the state) who just spent a month in Turkey and is traveling in Bulgaria for one week before returning to his Masters program in Polisci. I told him I would be going to Turkey probably in June. When I woke up, the lonely planet guide to Turkey was sitting on my bed. I am always surprised by how kind people can be. Maybe I am just a sap. Maybe he left it there accidentally, but it would seem strange to place a book on someone's bed while they are sleeping in it if you don't intend to give it to them, don't you think?
The message function on Myspace is down right now, so I can't contact anyone. It was down yesterday too. I guess I am here for a while, I don't need to rush my research, but it would be nice to figure out what I am doing next. Though there is a show in Varna on the 16th, so I will head off to Varna for that. Maybe after that I will head to Turkey. We'll see...

first show

I went to my first punk show last night. A friend told me it was really far away and would be super expensive to take a cab and it was a dangerous neighborhood and advised me not to go alone. I ignored him out of necessity- it was a 6 leva cab ride, took me maybe 2 minutes to find a cab on the way home, it was the student neighborhood, so there were only young people, it was on a busy street and didn't seem even remotely unsafe. So I guess don't believe everything that you hear. The show was really crowded- about 200 kids packed into a venue about the size of the hexagon... maybe a little bigger, but about that shape. It was much fancier though, with sleek black tables and a round bar taking up the back wall. The music was cool- I couldn't understand the lyrics and I really hate ska, which the first band was, but they were energetic and the crowd helped keep my spirits up. Anyway, I wrote a novel about it in my journal and am a bit sick of talking about it... the whole experience makes me feel better about my project, though i never did muster up the courage to find the people i was supposed to find there. They are all easily contacted via myspace, so I shouldn't have too much trouble...
At noon is was sunny and cloudless here. By one it was storming. It is 2:45 now and the sun is peaking out again. Sofia has weird weather.
Off to find food...

Lazy day

I have barely been out of the hostel today, except early this morning to call Tony in a phone office. I've been hanging out at the hostel all day doing nothing but contacting a few bands and talking to Katarina, the daytime bar tender at the hostel. It is slow enough that she has little work to do so we've been sitting in the garden being lazy. Its nice to not walk 10 miles like i have every other day...

cell phone number

If anyone dies or has some emergency, my telephone number here is 359 88 949 1065. But don't tell me if clove dies. Just freeze her. But if it is less of an emergency, international calling is relatively cheap from phone houses.

Bulgarian punk/hc festival

So I just learned there is a Bulgarian punk/hc festival here August 15,16 and 17th... and there will be 30+ bands at it. And I leave on August 7th. This really sucks. But I really don't want to change my ticket and be here for that much longer than I was originally going to be. Why didn't I know this before I bought my plane tickets? Fuck fuck fuck...

I have a lot to think about ...

Overpriced cell phone and free rent

I bought a cell phone today for 60lvs and a guiness book of world records free with two sim cards (why I need two, god knows) that each theoretically have ten minutes on them. The cards and book cost 15lv, so 75 total which is maybe maybe 55 USD or something. I can't do the math very well, 1BL=1.25USD with a good exchange rate... no the other way around... wait... I'm confused. Fractions were never my strong suite. Whichever one makes the US dollar 25% stronger... That's right, no? Anyway, Cyrillic Bulgarian guiness book of world records will do little good for me, but i have learned the phrase "the most" and "snakes" and "people" so I guess it can't be too bad. Maybe if I read the whole thing, I will be fluent (haha).
I also think I've set up a work exchange with the hostel. I will help out their cleaning lady who is in her 60s and getting burdened by all the work of keeping up a 50 bed hostel. In exchange I will get a free place to stay while I am in Sofia. I will probably end up being here for most of the time I stay in Bulgaria, though I need to do interviews in Plovdiv, Varna and Russe I think.
Living in a hostel is weird- you meet all these interesting people who have been half way around the world and the moment you get to know them they leave on more adventures. I hope to befriend some of the people who work here- that will give me a more stable friend base in Sofia anyway. I am meeting Chris for lunch, a guy who controls a fan page for an old punk band that has disbanded. He doesn't know the band, just likes their music. I sent messages back and forth with him all spring and he's going to show me around the center of Sofia. It will be nice to have a guide in this confusing city. Maybe this weekend I will try to climb the mountain- we'll see. As soon as I figure out what my cell phone number is (hopefully tonight) I will recontact all of my Sofia contacts and maybe my Varna ones too to let them know I am in the country. (I'm sure my research babble is very interesting to all you blog readers)

Anyway, I am doing well. I miss Minneapplsauce and the tiny and all of you.

Jet Lag and football?

My nap today was interrupted by screaming and honking and whistling and god knows what other noises at 5 in the afternoon. I can't remember if someone told me this or if I imagined/dreamed it but I think it had something to do with a football match? Now that I think about it, that must have been a dream. I guess I will find out soon enough. Maybe Bulgarians just really like to honk their horns and attach balloons to their car during rush hour traffic.
I am off to the vegetarian restaurant (if I can find it) I think I have learned enough Cyrillic today to translate street sings so I can read my English map. If not, Taxis are so inexpensive that I can always flag one down and have it drive me the three blocks to my hostel if I get totally turned around.

Thanks mom for the mini compass that came with that mini first aid kit thing. My sense of direction is not helped much by the lack of linear streets in Sofia and having something confirm my direction is endlessly helpful. Also, Laura, the mini flash light and the luggage lock are more useful that I ever imagined.

Sofia

So I seem to be in Sofia- I made it through my 16 hours of transit. I guess I got enough sleep on the plane that I am still awake at 11pm BG time (that's 3pm US time, kids). I lost 8 hours of my life in time zones, but i will get it all back in august. Bulgaria is crazy! Drivers are honking and swerving and driving 40 down narrow little roads with cars parked in both directions, up on the side walk, and anywhere else they can find to park! It is nuts! My hostel is near the center of the city (equivalent of down town sort of). It is an art hostel, so there is graffiti all over the walls and art exhibitions in the basement. The hostel clerk dragged me down to have drinks with him and some of his friends at the hostel bar, which i mysteriously didn't have to pay for. I couldn't drink too much since i haven't eaten since the breakfast meal on my first flight (flights don't like vegetarians) so I am just making a stop by the interwebs before heading up to my dorm. i am indeed going to have to learn cyrilic which is my plan for tomorrow. That and recontact all of my contacts to set up interviews. Sofia seems to be new york city without any money and with a history of communist artistic expression giving it an insane drive for western influence- but no huge buildings. anyway, Jess is really tired and needs to hit the sack before her stomach realizes it hasn't eaten in more than 16 hours.
Peace

Bulgaria

God knows if I will actually update this but I thought I'd give it a try. You can hear all about my adventures on my new, amazing blog.